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We do not sell separate spare parts such as controller internal components, replacement buttons, USB ports, standalone receivers, or other internal repair parts. All original bundled accessories included with controllers are not available for individual purchase.
The following items are the only official accessories sold separately:
You can browse all separately sold official accessories via this link: https://gamesir.com/collections/gamesir-accessories
The M button is positioned underneath the D-pad.
Controllers equipped with a gyroscope are listed below:
Xbox Controllers (Gyro function only available on PC): G7 Pro, G7 Pro Wuchang, G7 Pro Zenless Zone Zero, Tarantula Pro Xbox, T7 Pro Sugar Whirl.
PC Controllers: SuperNova, Cyclone 2, Tarantula Pro, Tarantula Pro 8K, Nova, G7 Pro 8K.
Mobile Controllers: G8+, X5S, X3 Pro, G8+ MFi (Android only)
The Xbox console enforces a 250 Hz polling rate limit, so the 1000 Hz option is only available on PC.
Polling rate refers to how frequently a controller samples and transmits input signals to the host device. Latency is the total delay spanning the polling cycle and actual input delivery.
Polling rate acts as the theoretical minimum latency ceiling:
Real-world latency will always exceed this theoretical baseline, determined mainly by the controller’s microcontroller (MCU) processing efficiency and installed firmware. Circuit board design is another critical factor, including PCB layout quality and electronic component grade.
Reference video: https://youtu.be/p7JureXjg7U
Polling Rate Explanation Polling rate refers to the frequency at which the controller checks for input signals. Polling is the process of sampling and detecting the current input state. A higher polling rate delivers more timely and accurate input responses.
Multiple variables can influence polling rate test results, including the following:
PC System Load For stable test results, run the test under near-idle conditions with low CPU, memory and disk activity.
USB Port and Microcontroller Factors include USB standard (USB 2.0 / 3.0), controller hardware managing the port, and the number & load of other connected devices.
USB Hubs Whether a hub is used, the hub’s performance level, and the load from other peripherals connected to the hub.
Controller Configuration Gyro toggle status, dead zone settings, installed firmware version and other custom parameters.
Testing Software and Version Always use the latest version of testing tools to avoid known bugs. Recommended tools: XInput Tester and Polling.exe.
Test Methodology The speed and consistency of joystick rotation performed during the test.
Summary: Due to these numerous variables, minor deviations in polling rate results between different PCs or separate test runs are normal.
No worries, all GameSir controllers are equipped with overcharging protection, whether used with a charging dock or not. Charging will automatically stop once the controller reaches full battery. Normally, the indicator light turns off upon full charge.
On Xbox consoles, you can adjust the indicator brightness level. Navigate to Settings > General > Accessibility > Night Mode > Controller Brightness and adjust the brightness to your preference.
Only non-mobile "Designed for Xbox" controllers work on Xbox consoles. If your controller is built for mobile devices or features the GameSir :881 GameSirButton home button logo instead of the Xbox button, official Xbox console support is not guaranteed.
Currently supported Xbox controllers include: T3 Pro Xbox, T7, T7 Pro, T7 Pro Wireless, G7, G7 SE, G7 HE, G7 Pro Tri-Mode, G7 Pro, Kaleid (K1), Kaleid Flux This list may include unreleased products.
Confirm whether your USB cable is properly connected to the controller’s USB port.
Try plugging the data cable into another USB port on the Xbox or the USB port at the back of the console.
Try using a different data cable to see if that fixes the issue.
For Kaleid / Kaleid Flux / T7 / T7 Pro W, press View + Menu + M and hold to reset the controller.
Note: If none of the above steps resolve the issue, send your details to gamesir@support.com. Attach a screenshot showing your order number and store name, along with a demonstration video. Also indicate that you’ve already tried the troubleshooting steps outlined on the official website. Our staff will assist you.
Firmly plug in the controller without holding any buttons to ensure a full connection — the controller may produce an audible click when properly seated. Many users have experienced difficulty with this step, with some stating it requires firm force. Several users even returned three units for issues, only to find the fourth unit worked perfectly after being fully plugged in.
Once the controller is plugged in and your PC or Xbox is powered on, hold the controller’s Xbox button to turn it on.
There are a few potential causes. Try all troubleshooting steps below:
PID recognition may fail. While connected, hold Xbox button + M button for 3 seconds, then unplug and replug the controller to switch to the original PID and restore device recognition. If this does not work, hold Xbox button + Share button for 3 seconds while connected to force switching between Xinput and GIP modes.
Try changing USB ports (preferably use ports directly on the motherboard instead of chassis ports or USB hubs) or cables (ensure you use a verified functional data cable). Also confirm the controller runs a stable firmware version.
Known problematic firmware versions for G7 SE/HE: 6.33, 6.38, and 6.5.6, which cause connection-related issues.
To check your firmware version, open GameSir Nexus or Legacy GameSir Nexus.
In GameSir Nexus: Click the upward arrow at the top right labeled "Firmware Upgrade". In Legacy GameSir Nexus: Press the "Updates" button on the controller page to view your current firmware version.
Ensure that you have tried the previously mentioned troubleshooting steps:
Firmly plug in the controller without holding any buttons to ensure a full connection — the controller may produce an audible click when properly seated. Many users have encountered difficulty with this step, with some stating it requires significant force. One user returned three units, only to find the fourth worked after realizing it was never fully plugged in.
Once the controller is plugged in and your PC or Xbox is powered on, hold the controller’s Xbox button to turn it on.
Performing a full shutdown (also known as a power cycle) of the Xbox can often restore controller detection, especially if the controller works normally on a PC.
Plug the controller into the rear USB port of the console. With the console powered on, hold the console’s power button for more than 10 seconds until it fully shuts down and the power indicator turns off. Unplug the console’s power cord from the wall outlet for approximately 30 seconds, then press the console power button 10 times to fully discharge residual power. Keep the controller plugged into the rear port, power the console back on, and check if the controller responds.
Try performing the Stick & Trigger Calibration via the app or manually:
Hold View + Menu + Xbox buttons, then plug the USB‑C cable into your PC. Release the buttons after plugging in. The indicator will flash slowly in white.
Make sure not to touch the triggers or sticks, then press the A button. The indicator will turn off.
Fully press LT and RT, and rotate both sticks in full circles three times. Then press the A button. The indicator will turn solid white, indicating calibration is complete.
Unplug and reconnect the controller before using it.
Notes:
Calibration must be performed with the faceplate installed. Calibrating without the faceplate will result in incorrect range values.
Ensure the controller is fully connected. Firmly plug in the controller without holding any buttons to achieve a complete connection — the controller may produce an audible click when properly seated. Once plugged in and your Xbox is powered on, hold the controller’s Xbox button to turn it on.
Notes: Controllers equipped with cable guards may feel fully inserted even when only halfway connected.
Holding one of the following combinations while plugging in the controller enters DFU mode or manual calibration mode: • Xbox button + Menu button • View button + Xbox button + Menu button
An audio tone will play as an indicator; the tone may vary by model.
If the cable is fully inserted, confirm you are using a functional data-capable cable.
After verifying the above steps, perform a full shutdown (also known as a power cycle) of the Xbox. This often restores controller detection, especially if the controller works normally on a PC.
Plug the controller into the rear USB port of the console. With the console powered on, hold the console’s power button for more than 10 seconds until it fully shuts down and the power indicator turns off. Unplug the console’s power cord from the wall outlet for approximately 30 seconds, then press the console power button 10 times to fully discharge residual power. Keep the controller plugged into the rear port, power the console back on, and check if the controller responds.
You may also refer to additional troubleshooting steps here: https://www.wikihow.com/Clear-Cache-on-Xbox-One. Power cycling clears the Xbox cache and can resolve multiple common issues.
Ensure the headset is fully inserted and sits flush with the port; push it in firmly. This is a surprisingly common solution for audio issues.
Additionally, you can adjust the settings here: Settings > General > Volume & audio output > Headset audio > Stereo uncompressed. Some users experience headset problems with other options. If you modified the polling rate, switch it back to 250Hz to prevent extra issues.
If your microphone does not work: Confirm the microphone is not muted. Check the Xbox menu and watch for a red LED near the bottom of the controller. Press the dedicated mute button (on supported controllers) or double-tap M button to toggle mute.
If you are using the controller wirelessly and the microphone works via wired connection but fails wirelessly, update the firmware for both the controller and dongle.
If you encounter microphone echo, disable mic monitoring.
Note: Try reducing headset volume. Loud audio may be picked up by the microphone, particularly with open-back headphones. You may also unplug and reinsert the headset.
Adjust volume and audio mix using these D-pad shortcuts: M button + D-pad Up to raise volume; M button + D-pad Down to lower volume. M button + D-pad Left increases game volume and reduces chat volume; M button + D-pad Right does the reverse.
If audio issues remain after completing these steps, the problem may stem from incompatibility with your headset. Test an alternative headset for troubleshooting. Most headsets compatible with official Xbox controllers (CTIA standard) work with GameSir controllers.
The bundled promotional Game Pass Ultimate code is only valid for new Game Pass Ultimate members. If you have previously subscribed to Game Pass Ultimate, or if you reside in an unsupported region (see https://www.xbox.com/regions), the code cannot be redeemed on your account.
If your account meets the eligibility criteria but you encounter code-related issues listed below:
Please submit supporting evidence (such as photos or a video showing the Game Pass card and the on-screen error message) via email to support@gamesir.com to apply for a replacement code.
Note: We cannot provide replacement codes for other issues such as temporary server faults.
To redeem the code, enter it exactly as printed on the paper at https://www.microsoft.com/redeem or https://www.xbox.com/redeem.
Stick Curves Stick curves define how the controller converts physical stick movement into input signals. Linear curve means input equals output directly (1 input = 1 output). Other curves deliver different response characteristics. Adjust based on personal preference.
Deadzone This parameter controls how much stick movement is required to trigger input registration.
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